Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Sheetrockdrywall Dry Wall Repair DURHAM

Sheetrockdrywall Dry Wall Repair DURHAM

Call Jim 919-542-5336 Sheetrockdrywall Dry Wall Repair DURHAM. Providing fast, friendly, professional Sheetrockdrywall repair and finishing service locally for over a quarter century! Estimates are always free, and NO JOB IS TO SMALL. About Me 


Sheetrockdrywall Dry Wall Repair DURHAM 



Forty five years experience and a do it right attitude assures that you are hiring the best SHEETROCKDRYWALL finisher for repair work on your home.



How to Prevent Cracks in Drywall

Taping and finishing drywall is one of those things you can expect to do occasionally as a remodeler, but unless you're a full-time professional who does nothing but drywall you can also expect to run into problems once in a while. Such is the nature of the beast, and such is the experience of Howard, a general remodeler with years of experience.

He rates his drywall skills as intermediate, "by no means an expert," but he clearly isn't satisfied with a job that's amateurish in any way. The ceiling he has installed has developed two problems, as he describes in this post at Fine Homebuilding's Breaktime forum: a hairline crack 18 in. long on a joint, and a "bubble line" stretching 4 ft. to 5 ft. on a butt end that he swears wasn't there before he primed and painted.

He's used 1/2-in. drywall over joists 16 in. on center, with mesh tape and four coats of lightweight all-purpose joint compound.

"In my exerience with drywall I know that if the drywall has gaps at the seams the tape will bubble up but these seams are nice and tight," he writes. "Also, I put a light across the joint before I primed and it looked sweet. I am sort of a perfectionist and it is driving me crazy having these two issues."

Questions about how the drywall was hung

At least one poster thinks 1/2-in. drywall is too skimpy for a ceiling. "Being picky, I'm surprised you used 1/2-in. on a ceiling," writes Tyr. "It should be 5/8-in., especially if [the ceiling is] textured," he adds, which makes drywall more susceptible to sagging.

But Liveonsawdust isn't so sure that's the issue. He says 3/4-in. drywall was once routine on ceilings, but adds: "I'm seeing more 1/2-in. lately. But we are using ceiling board (1/2 in.) that is much stiffer than regular 1/2 in. So I wouldn't worry about your 1/2-in. on 16-in. centers, especially with a smooth surface as opposed to a texture."

If there's no general agreement here, there's little doubt that Howard should have staggered the joints on adjacent sheets of drywall, something he says he did not do.

"Butt joints really should be staggered on walls and ceilings," writes Calvin. " More stress and movement on a continuous joint across several boards." That would explain why one of the defects Howard details could run more than 4 ft. where two butt ends meet. Staggered joints limit the length of a continuous crack.

While many of us would make sure that panel ends and edges landed on framing, where they could be securely fastened, Clewless1 offers an alternative.

"One trick I learned from the guy that did my house was to, in as much as possible, never let your butt joints end up on framing members," he says. "Best to let them 'float' and back them w/ e.g. a 3 in. scrap of plywood. This is good because: 1) you don't have to measure and fuss w/ getting a 4-ft. edge to be dead center; 2) fasteners near the edge often break the drywall which compromises the structure of the joint at that point; and 3) the floating joint is actually structurally superior. Movement of framing won't affect the joint and the joint is stronger because you don't have to put the fasteners so close to the edge.

"This makes it a piece of cake to layout a sheet w/out having to worry about having the joint line up."

Choosing the right tape and joint compound

Although Howard typically uses paper tape, on this job he decided to try mesh tape, along with lightweight, all-purpose joint compound. And this may also have contributed to the problems he encountered.

"I only use Durabond to embed mesh," writes Calvin. "Dries harder and adhesive content higher. Same goes with paper, tho I don't think that is as necessary."

NickNukeEm has had the same experience: "I only bed tape using Durabond or general purpose, never lightweight," he writes. "Every article I've ever read about bedding recommends green top mud or DB. Even so, you can get bubbles if you starve the tape by either spreading on too think a layer, or squeezing too much out after bedding. The debate of mesh vs. paper will wage on as long as both are on the shelves," he adds. "If I use mesh--which is rare--I bed it in setting compound, and I believe the mesh tape instructions recommend this, though I'm not sure."

Tyy, however, is certain that only a setting-type compound should be used with mesh tape, and that keeping the consistency of the compound stiff also is important.

"My preferred setting compound is Durabond-90 or -45, depending on the amount of job I've got," Calvin says, referring to different versions of the same product that cure at different rates. "Regular joint compound in a bucket is also fine. You take your chances on the liteweights and bucket toppings."

Geoffrey recommends this strategy: When using self-adhesive mesh tape, use a setting type compound (either Durabond or, even better, E-Z Sand). Apply the first coat over the tape, allow it to set, then apply a thin second coat, and touch up with a final coat as needed.

For paper tape, he adds, "Apply bedding coat of JC, apply paper tape, smooth and clean joint, allow to set-up, apply second coat, let set, apply 3rd coat if needed, sanding in between if needed, but there shouldn't be to much sanding needed."

Trying to pinpoint reasons for cracks and bubbles

To Megspop, the problems could have been caused by the application of too much compound.

"I haven't used paper tape on beveled joints or butt ends in years though I have fixed many, many, many bad tape joints (mostly from DIY homeowners) when paper tape was used," Megspop says. "I found it's usually poor bedding when the paper tape bubbles."

Bubbling can occur when the compound used to fill gaps sags, pushing down the mesh tape as it goes. "Check to see if there is mud or air (empty space) behind the bubble," Megspop says. "Paper tape is easy to removed and replace. Mesh tape, not so much. It's easier to run your knife along the crack or bubble and reapply new mesh. They also make 6-in. tape. I use 6-in. tape when repairing a DIY'ers attempt to do drywall.

"For your crack issue, is it a straight crack or does it vary? There are many reasons for compound to crack. In this case, without seeing it, I would rule out movement and lean more toward heavy compound application (too thick of a coat will crack) or again a gap. But its tough to determine without looking..."

To Boschvaark, Howard's goal of a perfect finish may be a contributing factor.

"Perfectionism may be the problem," Boschvaark writes. "I was a perfectionist when I first started taping, and pressed too hard, trying to get totally smooth coats. Which pressed out too much mud, allowing air in, creating bubbles on the next coat. I have found the opposite problem from you: If I don't have a gap between sheets, I more often get bubbling. These days, I want about [1/8-in.] gap and set paper tape in mayo consistency Durabond. The thinnish consistency makes it easier for me to load mud into the gap (which seems to hold better in the long term, sort of like keying plaster when using lath), and forces me to press more lightly when setting tape, aka I go a lot faster than I did when I was new to taping."

Two additional sources of information, as posters pointed out, include the Gypsum Construction Handbook, from the USG Corp., and Myron Ferguson's book, Drywall, published by The Taunton Press.

Choosing the right tape and joint compound

Although Howard typically uses paper tape, on this job he decided to try mesh tape, along with lightweight, all-purpose joint compound. And this may also have contributed to the problems he encountered.

"I only use Durabond to embed mesh," writes Calvin. "Dries harder and adhesive content higher. Same goes with paper, tho I don't think that is as necessary."

NickNukeEm has had the same experience: "I only bed tape using Durabond or general purpose, never lightweight," he writes. "Every article I've ever read about bedding recommends green top mud or DB. Even so, you can get bubbles if you starve the tape by either spreading on too think a layer, or squeezing too much out after bedding. The debate of mesh vs. paper will wage on as long as both are on the shelves," he adds. "If I use mesh--which is rare--I bed it in setting compound, and I believe the mesh tape instructions recommend this, though I'm not sure."

Tyy, however, is certain that only a setting-type compound should be used with mesh tape, and that keeping the consistency of the compound stiff also is important.

"My preferred setting compound is Durabond-90 or -45, depending on the amount of job I've got," Calvin says, referring to different versions of the same product that cure at different rates. "Regular joint compound in a bucket is also fine. You take your chances on the liteweights and bucket toppings."

Geoffrey recommends this strategy: When using self-adhesive mesh tape, use a setting type compound (either Durabond or, even better, E-Z Sand). Apply the first coat over the tape, allow it to set, then apply a thin second coat, and touch up with a final coat as needed.

For paper tape, he adds, "Apply bedding coat of JC, apply paper tape, smooth and clean joint, allow to set-up, apply second coat, let set, apply 3rd coat if needed, sanding in between if needed, but there shouldn't be to much sanding needed."

Trying to pinpoint reasons for cracks and bubbles

To Megspop, the problems could have been caused by the application of too much compound.

"I haven't used paper tape on beveled joints or butt ends in years though I have fixed many, many, many bad tape joints (mostly from DIY homeowners) when paper tape was used," Megspop says. "I found it's usually poor bedding when the paper tape bubbles."

Bubbling can occur when the compound used to fill gaps sags, pushing down the mesh tape as it goes. "Check to see if there is mud or air (empty space) behind the bubble," Megspop says. "Paper tape is easy to removed and replace. Mesh tape, not so much. It's easier to run your knife along the crack or bubble and reapply new mesh. They also make 6-in. tape. I use 6-in. tape when repairing a DIY'ers attempt to do drywall.

"For your crack issue, is it a straight crack or does it vary? There are many reasons for compound to crack. In this case, without seeing it, I would rule out movement and lean more toward heavy compound application (too thick of a coat will crack) or again a gap. But its tough to determine without looking..."

To Boschvaark, Howard's goal of a perfect finish may be a contributing factor.

"Perfectionism may be the problem," Boschvaark writes. "I was a perfectionist when I first started taping, and pressed too hard, trying to get totally smooth coats. Which pressed out too much mud, allowing air in, creating bubbles on the next coat. I have found the opposite problem from you: If I don't have a gap between sheets, I more often get bubbling. These days, I want about [1/8-in.] gap and set paper tape in mayo consistency Durabond. The thinnish consistency makes it easier for me to load mud into the gap (which seems to hold better in the long term, sort of like keying plaster when using lath), and forces me to press more lightly when setting tape, aka I go a lot faster than I did when I was new to taping."

Two additional sources of information, as posters pointed out, include the Gypsum Construction Handbook, from the USG Corp., and Myron Ferguson's book, Drywall, published by The Taunton Press.

RWM366 writes: I'm an old custom home builder who has done a fair amount of remodeling. The older you get the more you realize you don't know everything.... but I'll give it a shot.

You got some good advice. It's better to hang 5/8" board but 1/2" on 16" centers shouldn't be a problem. And I agree that you should leave an 1/8" gap between the boards. It's important that you stagger the butt joints at least 32" apart. It's sometimes a good idea to insert a piece of pressed cardboard on the parallel joists on either side of the butt joint which leaves the butt joint slight lower than the adjacent surface. It's very important that you have adequate backing and to be sure you use enough fasteners. I prefer screws and generally install more than code requires, especially in problem areas/situations. I use glue when I can.

I generally find that paper tape produces a better product than mesh. But I do use mesh on smaller projects. I have occasionally doubled up the mesh(4" on bottom, 2" on top) and used spray adhesive to bond the 4" mesh to the board and the 2" mesh to the 4" mesh. But again, I prefer paper. If I don't use an automatic taper, I soak the tape prior to applying it on smaller jobs. I use general purpose mud for taping and lightweight topping for finishing.

I have found that almost always bubbling under the tape is because there was not adequate mud under the tape. I have occasionally had bad mud but generally it's been just not enough mud. Be sure you let the tape/mud dry thoroughly before applying 1st coat of topping. If you are fussy, sand between coats. And yeah, I know everything looks clean until you paint. The paint affects the tape differently over mud vs over an air pocket and then bubbles show or the joint shows up. Lousy timing.

I've found that cracks generally relate to again not enough mud... occasionally shrinkage of either board or mud, and sometimes structural movement.

I had a 6' joint in a 6200 sq ft house that just WOULD NOT stop moving and cracking. I eventually cut a 1/4" joint down the center, filled it with polysulfide caulking and used the 4"/2" mesh overtop. Still had some problems and believe it or not then used automotive red oxide filler/skim coat, sanded, sealed, primed and painted. Problem solved.That was 3 years ago. As of yesterday, no cracks. Who would have guessed.

Also one last idea from an old man. I sometimes have had faint lines along the joints or nail spots that I couldn't get rid off. Lighting can sometimes be a nightmare. I've let the same color paint thicken in a tray... then used a 5" drywall blade to fill the crack with the thickened paint. Let dry. Add "one more" finish coat. Imperfection gone.

jimswoodproducts writes: After reading the article here, l thought l would reply. I live in Ontario, Canada l have been a drywall taper since 1978 just over 33 years. I never use mesh tape unless needed in repairing a small hole. Many tapers use mesh tape to save time, material but l prefer paper tape if needed the paper tape with bendable metal in it l use for ceiling corners l can't prefill or on corners where needed.

I prefill every gap with sheetrock 45, sands nice goes on smooth, durabond 90 l never use hard to sand for me durabond 90 was the demand in the 1980's and 1990's but up here not much now.

Here tapers again to save money time apply tape with sheetrock 45, durabond 90 l prefer using low dust purple box from start to finish, l know the younger generation of tapers will disagree with me. But l can make as much money using regular mud paper tape on all 3 coats and in the end do an excellent job.

For the part for the hairline crack on seams, when tape/mud was applied there may have been not enough screws put in board or some screws were sunk to deep on board.

Up here in Ontario hardly anyone prefill joints takes up time but will give a better finish as it will firm up joints if abit bouncy.

Sometimes if a homeowner or a beginner taper will not put on enough mud or wipe to much off causing air bubbles.

When tape is dry just cut with utility knive back on each side of bubble then replace that portion of tape. For 1/2'' board l built 2 additions a 1,000 sq ft on my home in 1987/1988 used 1/2'' gyprock still today no cracks nothing l used 1/2'' on ceiling as well trusses 24''o/c no problems.

The above just my opinion if anyone needs a question answered on there work email me at jimsdrywallrenovations@hotmail.com will be glad to help you if l can.

Envirocon writes: It sounds like air leakage carrying moisture is wetting the interior of the wall and causing the mud to rehydrate and crack upon drying. Probably through the rim joist and into the wall cavities through plumbing, heating and electrical penetrations in the base plate.

This can be diagnosed with a blower door and IR camera. Warm moist air from inside the home condenses when it gets into the cold wall, especially in homes with fiberglass batt insulation, since it usually is not installed tight to the drywall. This is common in homes with vinyl siding that does not have house wrap or air sealing. The repair is labor intensive, but pays off in lower heating and cooling costs.

Remove all siding and trim, seal every opening with spray foam, then install house wrap with acoustic sealant at the top and bottom, tape at all seams and proper flashing details. Then re-install siding and trim and repair drywall as needed.

nevrsawitcomin writes: Although I am not a professional drywaller or finisher I have hung and finished my share of the goods. I do have a question for someone who can recommend how to repair the following problem. I have looked at a house in central NYS where the winter temperatures have gotten to 20+ below zero this past winter. The house is 2 X 6 framed with 1/2 inch drywall. During the deepest cold this winter corner seams have cracked on the outside walls. It appears only on the second floor. A previous event with the former owner is evident since one corner has a fillet of drywall compound showing the entire vertical length. Anyone lend a thought how to repair this correctly?


Call Jim 919-542-5336 Call Jim 919-542-5336 for prompt, reliable Sheetrockdrywall Dry Wall Repair service in DURHAM.
Sheetrockdrywall
Call Jim 919-542-5336 
  1. Sheetrockdrywall Dry Wall Repair DURHAM

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    Jimmy Holmes
    1 day ago – Call Jim 919-542-5336 Sheetrockdrywall Dry Wall Repair DURHAM, North ... Wall. .... joint tape, hole repair, crack repair, water damaged walls or ceilings can be ...



No matter what problem you are having with your Sheetrockdrywall call today for fast, friendly, professional work. Nail pop, poorly finished drywall joints, loose or cracking metal corners and joint tape, hole repair, crack repair, water damage, popcorn texture repair or removal. Your wall or ceiling can be fixed and look like new again.

919-542-5336 Sheetrockdrywall Dry Wall Repair DURHAM! Call Jim for fast, friendly, professional service, free estimates and NO JOB IS TO SMALL.



Drywall Specialist
84 Pear Drive, Pittsboro, NC27312
Phone: 919-542-5336 URL of Map
 


Sheetrockdrywall Dry Wall Repair DURHAM




https://plus.google.com/authorship#107450786396727255252/posts By Jimmy Holmes Call 919-542-5336 USG Brand Drywall Joint Compound Durham, North Carolina / NC.



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Call Jim 919-542-5336 I always buy USG Brand Drywall Joint Compound in Durham, NC.



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Monday, February 11, 2013

Drywall Taping Bedding Durham

Drywall Taping Bedding Durham

Call Jim 919-542-5336 for Drywall Taping and Bedding in Durham, North Carolina.
Drywall Taping Bedding in Durham

Jim's Drywall Repair 919-542-5336 Taping and bedding service in Durham. Call today for fast, friendly, professional service. About Me


I have provided taping and bedding service in Durham, Chapel Hill, Cary, Apex, Chatham County, Pittsboro and Raleigh for over a quarter century. With 45 years experience I can make your walls and ceilings look the way the should.

Call Jim 919-542-5336 Drywall repair should be left to a contractor when ever possible. Refinishing, holes, cracks, no matter what problem you are having it will be corrected and look great. 


Textured ceilings can be repaired as well. The texture can be removed or a good contractor can repair it. Locating a contractor for an estimate, bid, quote or proposal should be another easy task.


Drywall Taping Bedding Durham

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Jimmy Holmes
Nov 4, 2012 – Call Jim 919-542-5336 Drywall Taping and Bedding in Durham. Drywall repair and texture repair or removal service in Durham, NC for over 25 years....


Drywall Taping Bedding Durham. If you need to have drywall installation or mud work you certainly should consider getting a professional to do the job for you. This part of the construction is a difficult job and really needs an experienced contractor that is skilled in refinish work.  


Call Jim 919-542-5336 Drywall Taping Bedding Durham. Drywall taping and bedding work should be left to a professional contractor when ever possible to fix holes and cracks on your wall or ceiling easier and more quickly. 


Drywall Taping Bedding Durham

https://plus.google.com/authorship#107450786396727255252/posts By Jimmy Holmes Call 919-542-5336 Drywall Taping and Bedding contractors Durham.


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Drywall Refinishing Durham

Drywall Refinishing Durham

Call Jim 919-542-5336 for Drywall Refinishing in Durham, North Carolina.
Drywall Refinishing Durham

Jim's Drywall Repair 919-542-5336 If your contractor did a poor job on your drywall and it needs to be refinished call for a free estimate today. About Me

I have provided refinishing service in Durham, Chapel Hill, Cary, Apex, Chatham County, Pittsboro and Raleigh for over a quarter century. With 45 years experience I can make your walls and ceilings look the way the should.

Call Jim 919-542-5336 Drywall repair should be left to a contractor when ever possible. Refinishing, holes, cracks, no matter what problem you are having it will be corrected and look great. 


Textured ceilings can be repaired as well. The texture can be removed or a good contractor can repair it. Locating a contractor for an estimate, bid, quote or proposal should be another easy task.


Drywall Refinishing Durham

popcorntexturerepair.blogspot.com/.../popcorn-texture-respraying...Cached
Jimmy Holmes
Nov 4, 2012 – Call Jim 919-542-5336 Drywall Refinishing Durham. Drywall repair and texture repair or removal service in Durham, NC for over 25 years....


Drywall Refinishing Durham. If you need to have drywall installation or mud work you certainly should consider getting a professional to do the job for you. This part of the construction is a difficult job and really needs an experienced contractor that is skilled in refinish work.  


Call Jim 919-542-5336 Drywall Refinishing Durham. Drywall refinishing work should be left to a taping contractor when ever possible to fix holes and cracks on your wall or ceiling easier and more quickly. 


Drywall Refinishing Durham

https://plus.google.com/authorship#107450786396727255252/posts By Jimmy Holmes Call 919-542-5336 Drywall Refinishing Durham Contractors.


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Drywall Repair Tools Materials Supplies Durham

Drywall Repair Tools Materials Supplies Durham

Call Jim 919-542-5336 a Drywall Repair Taping and Finishing Contractor in Durham, North Carolina.
Drywall Repair Tools Materials Supplies Durham

Jim's Drywall Repair 919-542-5336 Lowe's is a great place to purchase all your drywall materials, supplies, tools and equipment including joint compound, tape, mud knifes and pans. About Me

I have provided service in Durham, Chapel Hill, Cary, Apex, Chatham County, Pittsboro and Raleigh for over a quarter century and have always purchased my supplies at Lowe's. They have a great selection and fantastic prices on quality drywall and texture supplies every day. Don't do a remodeling, home improvement or home repair job without checking the prices that Lowe's has to offer. You'll save money and get quality products that will make your home stand out from the crowd. Lowe's for drywall materials, supplies, tools and equipment.

Call Jim 919-542-5336 Drywall repair should be left to a contractor when ever possible. Holes and cracks on your wall or ceiling will be finished quickly and will look great. 


Drywall repair prices are available and getting a few bids should be easy enough. The cost usually isn't so much that the average person can't afford it unless you really have major damage to your drywall. A hole or crack usually is not that expensive to repair.

Textured ceilings can be repaired as well. The texture can be removed or a good contractor can repair it. Locating a contractor for an estimate, bid, quote or proposal should be another easy task.


Drywall Repair Tools Materials Supplies Durham

popcorntexturerepair.blogspot.com/.../popcorn-texture-respraying...Cached
Jimmy Holmes
Nov 4, 2012 – Call Jim 919-542-5336 Drywall Repair Tools Materials Supplies Durham. Drywall repair and texture repair or removal service in Durham, NC for over 25 years....


Drywall Repair Tools Materials Supplies Durham. If you need to have drywall installation or mud work you certainly should consider getting a professional to install it for you. This part of the construction is a difficult job and really needs an experienced contractor to do the hanging. Be sure to avoid Chinese drywall, it may still be on shelves in local home improvement centers. 


Call Jim 919-542-5336 Drywall Repair Tools Materials Supplies Durham. Drywall repair should be left to a taping and finishing contractor when ever possible. Tapers can fix holes and cracks on your wall or ceiling easier and more quickly. 


Drywall Repair Tools Materials Supplies Durham

https://plus.google.com/authorship#107450786396727255252/posts By Jimmy Holmes Call 919-542-5336 Drywall Repair Tools Materials Supplies Durham Contractors.


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Sunday, February 10, 2013

Drywall Repair Taping Finishing Contractor Durham

Drywall Repair Taping Finishing Contractor Durham

Call Jim 919-542-5336 a Drywall Repair Taping abd Finishing Contractor in Durham, North Carolina.
Drywall Repair Taping Finishing Contractor Durham

Call Jim 919-542-5336 Drywall repair should be left to a taping and finishing contractor when ever possible. Tapers can fix holes and cracks on your wall or ceiling easier and more quickly. About Me


Repairing gypsum prices are available and getting a few bids should be easy enough. The cost usually isn't so much that the average person can't afford it unless you really have major damage to your drywall. A hole or crack usually is not that expensive to repair.

Textured ceilings can be repaired as well. The texture can be removed or a good contractor can repair it. Locating a contractor for an estimate, bid, quote or proposal should be another easy task.


Drywall Repair Taping Finishing Contractor Durham

popcorntexturerepair.blogspot.com/.../popcorn-texture-respraying...Cached
Jimmy Holmes
Nov 4, 2012 – Call Jim 919-542-5336 Drywall Repair Taping Finishing Contractor Durham. Drywall repair and texture repair or removal service in Durham, NC for over 25 years....


If you need to have drywall installation or mud work you certainly should consider getting a professional to install it for you. This part of the construction is a difficult job and really needs an experienced contractor to do the hanging. Be sure to avoid Chinese drywall, it may still be on shelves in local home improvement centers. 


Call Jim 919-542-5336 Drywall repair should be left to a taping and finishing contractor when ever possible. Tapers can fix holes and cracks on your wall or ceiling easier and more quickly. 


Drywall Repair Taping Finishing Contractor Durham

https://plus.google.com/authorship#107450786396727255252/posts By Jimmy Holmes Call 919-542-5336 Drywall Repair Taping Finishing Contractor Durham.


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Lasting Permanent Sheetrock Repair Durham

Lasting Permanent Sheetrock Repair Durham

919-542-5336 If you want lasting, permanent repairs on cracks in your home.
If you want lasting, permanent repair on drywall cracks.

Call Jim 919-542-5336 Lasting Permanent Sheetrock Repair Durham Service on cracks in Durham, Raleigh, Chapel Hill, Cary, Apex and Chatham County, North Carolina. FREE ESTIMATES - NO JOB TO SMALL. About Me


No matter what problem you are having with your walls or ceiling call today for lasting, permanent repair service. Fast, friendly, professional work. Nail pop, poorly finished drywall joints, loose or cracking metal corners and joint tape, hole repair, crack repair, water damage, popcorn texture repair or removal. Your wall or ceiling can be fixed and look like new again.


  1. Lasting Permanent Sheetrock Repair Durham

    popcorntexturerepair.blogspot.com/.../popcorn-texture-respraying...Cached
    Jimmy Holmes
    Nov 4, 2012 – Call Jim 919-542-5336 Lasting Permanent Drywall Repair Durham. My company specializes in drywall repair and texture repair or removal service in Durham, NC for over 25 years....


Call Jim 919-542-5336 Lasting Permanent Sheetrock Repair Durham. I can do repairs that last and are permanent on your drywall walls or ceilings. Service in Durham, Raleigh, Chapel Hill, Cary, Apex and Chatham County, North Carolina. FREE ESTIMATES - NO JOB TO SMALL.  



Drywall Specialist
84 Pear Drive, Pittsboro, NC27312
Phone: 919-542-5336 URL of Map
 


Lasting Permanent Sheetrock Repair Durham

http://plus.google.com/authorship#107450786396727255252/posts By Jimmy Holmes Call 919-542-5336 Lasting Permanent Sheetrock Repair Durham. Service in Raleigh, Chapel Hill, Cary, Apex and Chatham County, NC.


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